Review: Dawn Ranch: First In

Why book?

It seems increasingly harder and harder to relax these days. Dawn Ranch is the rare property that makes it easy to do so. A tremendous amount of consideration and intention—from design choices and programming options to the staff’s easy friendliness—has gone into making this property in the most idyllic setting a true escape.

Set the scene

Over the past few years, long-bohemian Sonoma has seen a handful of splashy, big hotel openings that make the are feel like it’s headed the way of Napa, its ritzy neighboring county. Dawn Ranch is not one of those openings—in the best, most magical way possible. The property is set right on the Russian River, which (much of the year) is mellow and perfect for easy canoeing and kayaking, and an easy walk from the shops and restaurants of downtown Guerneville. Dawn Ranch’s cabins, cottages, and glamping-style tents (81 keys all in) are spread out across the retreat’s 22 acres punctuated by ancient giant redwoods, grassy meadows, and a century-old apple orchard. From the minute you step onsite there's a clear invitation to slow down and take in the surrounding nature. The check-in area is low-key, and more outdoor than indoor, with a chalkboard that highlights the week’s activities—morning yoga or meditation, an origami workshop, stargazing in the orchard, or live music at the bandshell. The front desk can kit you out with picnic blankets, sketchbooks, and binoculars, and there are acoustic Fender guitars available for campfire singalongs. There are quiet places—a bench in the sweet kitchen garden, a picnic table under the shade of a cedar, a fire pit—that beckon for guests to stop and stay put for a moment. While the decor and design is very contemporary, there's this lovely throwback-to-simpler-times feel (and no phones or TVs in the room help keep this vibe going). You feel a bit like you’ve wandered into an artists’ retreat from 100 years ago, and like it wouldn’t be at all a surprise to see someone strolling with a parasol stop to sketch a landscape or jot down an ode to the bucolic setting.

The backstory

This place has a fantastic history. It opened in the early 1900s and operated for decades as Murphy’s Ranch, a riverfront resort where families from San Francisco could come to get away from the big city. Many of the cabins that are still standing were built in the 1950s. From the 1970s to the early 2000s, the property was known as Fife’s and was one of the area’s most popular and successful gay resorts. In 2005, the property was purchased and rebranded as Dawn Ranch (named after the two rare Dawn Redwoods that are onsite). In 2019, following extensive flood damage, Dawn Ranch underwent massive renovations and, as of this month, is beginning a new chapter in its long, storied life.

The rooms

There are several accommodation options; all are charming and have been thoroughly renovated. The cabins are the smallest, with a queen or king bed (most with private outdoor decks), and just right for solo travelers or a couple. The cottages have one or two bedrooms, a generous living room, and outdoor space. The Chalets have a bit more room—private gardens and sun rooms—and beautiful period details like redwood floors, and are just right for a few people traveling together. For bigger families or groups, the Bungalows—with two bedrooms and baths, and a full kitchen—are the way to go. Glamping style tents will soon be another option.

Regardless of accommodation type, the interiors manage to feel stylish, design-forward, and totally right for the bucolic Sonoma setting while also referencing the property’s history. I stayed in a one bedroom Creekside Cottage, a restored 1920s charmer right near the boathouse and a short walk to the river, that had wide-planked wood floors, beamed ceilings, and whitewashed walls. Dusty-sage green tiles face the gas fireplace in the living room, as well as the shower walls bringing forest shades indoors. Details like unlacquered brass bathroom fixtures that will weather and patina over the years and beautifully made wooden furniture nod to a time when care, craft, and material were prized over cost and expediency. So much thought has gone into making the rooms feel elevated (aesthetically) but also really comfortable and cozy. The birdwatching book on the table in my living room, Le Labo products in the bathroom, and very good in-room coffee (single-use pourover pouches that can be composted) are lovely touches.

Food and drink

The Lodge—the property’s main dining, bar, and gathering space—is stunning. Lots of honey-hued wood, plush sofas, and a fireplace in the lounge area create such a welcoming warm vibe that continues into the bar and restaurant areas. The menu, conceived by Argentinian restaurateur and chef Fernando Trocca, leans into the ridiculous bounty this part of California is known for by including locally sourced produce and game, and of course, Sonoma wine. Standouts on the seasonal menu while I visited were the halibut crudo, and the risotto with local trumpet and brown clamshell mushrooms.

The spa

The spa was a surprise—I wasn’t expecting to be blown away. For starters, the atmosphere is so genuinely relaxing. Many spas try so hard to be library-quiet cocoons, with hushed voices and awkwardly slow movements, that they end up being quite stressful and way too precious. Instead, the spa here is inviting. Heidi, the spa manager and one of the property’s yoga instructors, is so welcoming and easygoing that you feel a deep sense of ease upon arrival. The relaxation area feels like a beautifully appointed living room, the bathrooms (no locker rooms; you’re given a tote for your things that also has the plushest robe imaginable to can wear back to your room, slippers, and a few towels) are lovely with sand-hued zellige tiles in the shower and a rough-hewn stone sink. There are the expected facials, massages, and healing modalities like sound baths, yoga and meditation. The real game changer, though, is the spa's outdoor area with four al fresco soaking tubs, a glass-fronted sauna, and an open-to-the-elements shower.

The neighborhood/area

Dawn Ranch is about an hour and a half drive north from San Francisco. If you’re visiting from out of state, it’s worth seeing if you can fly into the Charles M. Schulz-Sonoma County Airport in Santa Rosa, which is about 15 miles from the property. The retreat is a very short walk from downtown Guerneville’s main drag, where there are a handful of restaurants and shops. The buzzy Sonoma town of Healdsburg with its excellent dining scene as well as the Napa wine towns of St. Helena and Calistoga are all less than 45 minutes away.

The service

I visited during the very early days and the team, mostly in the restaurant, were still finding their footing—but everyone is so kind and willing to help, which goes a long way and is the true meaning of hospitality. That said, this is a laid back place, which is part of its beauty; while staff is very friendly and will do whatever they can to make your stay great, this isn’t a valet and turn-down service establishment.

For families Dawn Ranch is good for families with school age or teen kids who can take advantage of the nearby river and the loaner bikes, and who are old enough to appreciate stargazing and campfires.

Accessibility

There are ADA standards in place.

Anything left to mention?

This property is fabulous for weddings (so many beautiful little areas for the ceremony and the celebration) or group get togethers like multi-generational family reunions. A new river dock will be completed this summer, and a saltwater pool will go in near the Boathouse next year. (There's currently a small saltwater pool open to guests located across the street from the Lodge.)