Review: Tawana Lodge: First In

Why book Tawana Lodge?

For decades, the chiefs of the Batawana tribe have jealously guarded this corner of the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, ensuring that it has remained one of the last undefiled wildernesses, a place where predators, herbivores and antelopes roam in high concentrations. Now the paramount chief has opened the door just a crack to let safari specialists Natural Selection build one of the smartest new lodges in the region. Being the only camp in the entire concession means that its lucky guests have the run of the place. With guaranteed eyefuls of wildlife, superior cuisine and immersive accommodation, Tawana has created one of the most life-affirming experiences.

Set the scene

Safari specialist architect, Michael Kornmuller, has devised an eye-catching conical tunnel entrance to the lodge, shaped like a traditional sikuku fishing net. It casts a lattice of shadows over you as you walk through it, and leads into the main area, an open lounge and dining terrace that has elevated, far-reaching views of the grassy Gomoti River floodplain. This sweeping, unfenced vista is a 180-degree stage for grazing warthogs, antelopes, and elephants. Sometimes the animals wander thrillingly close to the terrace: a hippo grunted in the twilight meters away from me as I stood in the dining kgotla, sipping rosé from the walk-in wine cellar. And if that weren’t stimulating enough, the terrace’s public toilet is very public, with an open front wall that exposes you to the grasslands in a way that’ll give you either a buzz or stage fright.

The backstory

The father and grandmother of the Batawana tribe’s current paramount chief, Chief Tawana Moremi, knew their ancestral hunting grounds were ecological gold and had the foresight to turn their land into the Moremi Game Reserve in 1963. Decades later, the chief was allocated a concession of land within the reserve and subsequently invited tenders to build a lodge here. Safari specialists Natural Selection won the bid and began construction of the concession’s first-ever camp in 2023. Doors opened in May 2024.

What makes it different?

As it’s the sole camp in this 53 hectares of game viewing land, Tawana has the feel of a private reserve. The closest lodges are across the river in a different concession, meaning that guests literally have the unfenced landscape to themselves for year-round viewing of wildlife and flora that hasn’t changed in millennia.

Area & activities

Seven-seater open vehicles depart for twice-daily game drives in the early morning and late afternoon. Private vehicles can be hired for extra exclusivity. This area lies beyond the main river delta system and therefore has fewer rivers, but its grassland teems with so much wildlife my binoculars stayed untouched in my bag. Our tongue-in-cheek requests for specific sightings (“Cheetahs, please!”) were a running joke, except the delivery was real. Each of my five game drives revealed something different and riveting: a cheetah catching and eating a springbok; her four sub-adult cubs sitting in the sunset, their hungry faces framed by vernonia flowers as they ogled prey they were too inexperienced to hunt; a lioness being mobbed by a wildebeest herd and then followed by hyenas as she searched for her sister who had been attacked by male lions. We enjoyed facetime with leopards, those masters of elusivity, plus wild dogs and dozens of bird species including Cory’s bustards and saddle-billed hornbills.

After some downtime back at the lodge, we headed out for the afternoon game drive and finished with sundowners by a river dotted with lilies. On other days we took scenic helicopter flights over the delta (not included in the price) for aerial views of hippo pods and other animals among the rivers that swirl like ribbons through the landscape. Guests can also take river rides on a motorboat or a makoro (canoe).

The rooms

The villas are connected to the main area by a wooden, elevated walkway that briefly dips to ground level in order to facilitate elephant crossings. Up to 22 guests can stay in eight large, rear-facing suites, three of which are family rooms. Cooled by a ceiling fan and air-conditioner, each suite comprises three thatched ‘huts’—a bedroom, bathroom and lounge with minibar. The ochre-coloured floors, made from recycled cork, visually echo the materials used in traditional Botswana homes. Wall-to-wall patio windows look out onto a rear terrace shaded by ebony and sausage trees, with views of the open grasslands. Without leaving my bed I watched elephants and warthogs grazing. There’s an outdoor shower, private plunge pool and mini lounge, plus an exercise bike, weights and yoga mat. My bedside flashlight came in handy when investigating the spine-tingling roars and grunts of lions and hippos during the night. Prices range from $2,195 - $3,495 per night and include airstrip transfers, all meals, daily activities, non-premium drinks and laundry.

Food

Tawana has elevated safari cuisine to new levels. Executive chef Lungile Mbangi, who is classically trained in Italian and French cuisine, oversees a vegan, vegetarian and meat-based menu that is largely European with some African twists. Starters might include arancini risotto with chard and sweetcorn; or blinis with chakalaka, a divine spicy bean ratatouille-style relish (Southern African sauce). Mains include pan-fried grilled beef fillet and kingklip with double-fried potatoes and a mixed bean ragu. The excellent thin-crust pizzas are cooked in a wood-fired oven with a choice of fresh toppings. Chef Mbangi also excels at desserts, such as pavlova with whipped coconut cream, or passionfruit cheesecake. The vegan chilli avocado and lime ice cream was great.

Breakfasts are cooked or continental and served like all meals, in the main area. On the edge of its terrace, overlooking the plains, we had drinks in two circular seating areas designed to imitate the traditional kgotla (public meeting space) and are centered around a boma fire pit.

Drinks

The walk-in wine cellar contains an excellent wine selection sourced from top Western Cape wine estates such as Raats Benguela Cove, Graham Beck, Hartenberg, Anthonij Rupert and several more. Drinks are all-inclusive except for the premier wines.

The service

The well-trained staff are attentive, friendly, and on hand for wake-up calls and snacks. Most of them grew up locally and have a calm familiarity with the wildlife.

For families

Children above age six are welcome. Families with children under 12 must hire a private truck for game drives.

Eco effort

The camp is 100 percent solar-powered, with a backup generator if necessary.

Best time to go

The camp is open all year round. The dry season runs from April to October, and the green season between November and March.

How to get there

Flights from Cape Town and Johannesburg go direct to Maun, from where guests can either transfer to camp via helicopter, or take a light aircraft transfer to Santawani airstrip and then travel to the camp by road, which serves as a game drive in itself.

Accessibility

Room six is accessible, with a lower bathroom basin and a handrail by the toilet. Ramps exist throughout the camp, and you enter game vehicles from a raised platform.

Anything left to mention?

Wi-Fi is available in the rooms only. The hours between morning and late afternoon game drives leave plenty of downtime, which you can either spend in the gym, the outdoor 16-meter lap pool, getting an in-room spa treatment, or checking out the gift shop, which sells pieces produced by the local basket-weaving center.

A version of this story originally appeared on Condé Nast Traveller UK.