Places to Stay

My Favorite Airbnb: A Bright Lima Apartment One Block From the Cliffs

It's walking distance from fantastic ceviche, green spaces, and laid-back bars.
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Airbnb

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I love Lima—it's the city my partner is from, yes, but it's also home to mind-shattering seafood, a great surf scene, nightlife, and some seriously underrated indie fashion. I'm lucky to visit two or three times a year, but the blessing and curse is that we always stay with family. I love them, but blow-up mattresses and a shared bathroom with my 18- and 20-year-old nieces have their expiration dates.

Townhouse in Miraflores, Peru

This past May, we were headed to the seaside city ahead of our blowout wedding celebration in Cusco. We had about 10 days to work remotely and welcome a trickle of international visitors. We definitely needed our own spot this time around and this Airbnb—with its convenient location right in Miraflores, a laundry room, and two suitable workspaces—checked all of our boxes. I'd also argue it would meet most travelers' needs, whether you're passing through the city on the way to shinier attractions (Machu Picchu, the Amazon), or taking advantage of the fact that Lima is actually an incredible place to work remote for a couple weeks (imagine: wake up and jog along the verdant Costa Verde coastline, log on, slip out for fresh, affordable seafood lunches, etc.).

Not far from Parque Kennedy, often considered a central point in Miraflores (which is, itself, the most popular neighborhood for visitors and Peruvians who can afford it), this duplex also sits a block from the famous malécon—essentially, miles and miles of parks and continuous pathways that run atop the cliffs facing the Pacific Ocean, as surfers ride the waves below. Walk just a couple blocks away from the ocean, and you'll find low-key local restaurants (Lobo de Mar, recommended to me by local designer Mozhdeh Matin, has a fantastic leche de tigre), cutesy coffee shops (I became a regular at Sol on this trip), and even more parks (like Parque Bicentenario Miraflores, or Parque de Amor). That's if you want to live like a local—if you're on a bucket-list checking trip, you'll be glad to know that Maido, recently named the Best Restaurant in South America, is mere blocks away. The bohemian boutique-filled neighborhood of Barranco is 20 minutes on foot, or about 7 in a cheap Uber; and other must-visits, like the Mercado Surquillo (where many a food tour, like those from Urban Kitchen which guide you through fascinating fruits, tubers, and even Amazonian grub), are easily within reach.

Megan Spurrell

But there are many Airbnbs in this neighborhood (a couple friends snagged a spot just around the corner during the same time, which was fun). What really made me ready to set Rivy's house as my go-to for future trips, beyond the location, was that, inside, it functioned as the oasis we needed on a whirlwind trip. The bedroom was comfy, pared back, and quiet, so we could get fantastic rest every night; the kitchen had the essentials we needed on the mornings we chose to make breakfast (plus, a couple bodegas within two blocks meant it was easy to pick up eggs, toast, and milk for coffee). A little café and tea setup meant that, with no prep, we could still feel at home the first morning. Plus, an extra pull-out bed downstairs, with a private space and coat rack, really felt like a second room (my mom and sister reported that the sofa bed mattress was a bit thin, but for two nights it did the trick).

If you're working remotely, you can count on the Wi-Fi here, too. It's totally speedy, and reliable for Zoom calls, movie nights, and uploading photos and videos of your trip. With a desk in the bedroom and a roomy dining table, you won't struggle for a suitable workspace either. And if you're on a long-haul trip like us—or at the tail-end of a big adventure—I promise you the open-air laundry room outside the kitchen will be a lifesaver. Just remember that you'll need a day or two to line-dry items, though it's a small price to pay for temporarily feeling like you might actually live here. If you need anything else, know that the host is quick to reply, and lives right around the corner (when we needed more towels, or had a question about the stay, we were never left hanging).