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The sun had just set as I rolled down a dark, narrow lane in the remote Balinese village of Kaba-Kaba. The gate at the alley's end swung open to reveal a flurry of excited dogs and smiling staff to welcome my arrival. I’d made it to Lodge in the Woods. Any uncertainty melted away as the owner, Bernard Teo, greeted me with a hug and whisked me over to a communal table bustling with guests from all over the world.
Amid recommendations from fellow guests, I perused the menu, trying to resist the temptation to order everything. The dishes were crafted from the Lodge's pesticide-free garden and with fresh catches from their fishing expeditions. The menu celebrated traditional cooking methods, fermentation, and pickling.
After the incredible meal, I headed to my room—named Nalu after one of the rescued goats on the property’s farm. (Each of the six guest rooms paid tribute to a different animal resident.) Inside, photos of Nalu adorned the minimalist space. High ceilings, concrete walls, and soft lighting created a calming ambiance, along with a rain shower guaranteed to invoke a meditative state. But, it was the bathroom's unique feature, a towering tree growing through a rectangular opening in the ceiling, that stole the spotlight.
While each guestroom had its own bedroom and bathroom, other areas were shared, like the magnesium mineral pool, animal sanctuary, and dining table where you can enjoy chef-cooked meals (including a complimentary breakfast for two) over good conversation. There are also a variety of experiences available, including the Balinese Fishing Boat Adventure, which are included in the price of your room.
Breakfast the following morning was particularly magical. The morning sun cast everything in a golden hue—filtered rays streamed through the lush foliage and dogs lounged at our feet. Beyond the shimmering pool, horses (part of the property's animal sanctuary) indulged in fresh corn treats, chickens pecked at the ground, and doves fluttered by.
In daylight, I was able to see the property in all its splendor. The Lodge's design, conceived by Bernard himself, reflected his commitment to preserving nature. The use of light and space created a visually serene atmosphere, with sturdy, low concrete structures surrounded by lush greenery. From the open-air dining to the tree-lined passages to the expansive windows, the indoor-outdoor space flowed seamlessly, filled with high-quality natural materials and showing a particular attention to detail.
After breakfast, I strolled through the farm and met Nalu, my room’s namesake, and her fellow animal residents. The sanctuary was created as a space for guests and animals to coexist harmoniously, so I found a variety of animals from horses to goats, like Nalu, wandering the space.
What struck me most was the genuine warmth and camaraderie among everyone, guests and staff alike. Longtime visitors were greeted like family with a "Welcome home!” and a warm hug. It's these moments that elevated Lodge in the Woods beyond a mere accommodation—along with its integration with the village of Kaba-Kaba. The drivers, massage therapists, and staff were all part of the local community. And, it’s worth noting that their fees are passed along directly without The Lodge taking a cut, ensuring that the community benefits directly from The Lodge's success.
Between the magnesium pool, River House for yoga, bikes to explore the village, sunset cruises, and more, there were so many interesting activities to take part in. But simply soaking in the calming atmosphere and natural beauty of the area was one of my favorite aspects of the trip.
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