Over the coming weeks, some 15 million visitors will descend upon Paris for the 2024 Olympics. And many will linger longer, hitting the country’s hotspots such as the much-loved Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, which already teems with travelers. So if you’ve been eyeing a hotel nestled in the quaint town of Gordes, or dreaming about a dip off the coast of Antibes or Saint-Tropez, you might want to think again. But that doesn’t mean you have to rule out a sojourn to the South of France altogether–other sunny locations including lesser-trafficked Marseille and the Luberon Valley, sans Masseratis and glitzy Gucci slides, are indeed worthwhile for a quiet city break.
A rebirth in Marseille
Skip flying through Paris and take a direct flight to Nice (both La Compagnie and Air France fly direct from New York City this time of year.) If Paris is an unavoidable layover, consider a connecting flight that will land you in Marseille (rather than Nice), a seaside city that has had a major resurgence. The gritty port city isn’t only seasonal and teeming with tourists, but home to much of France’s cool crowd. In recent years, there’s been an influx of creatives here, from Paris and beyond. With them, came a slew of new restaurants, bars, and shops; last year, Texan-born supermodel Erin Wasson opened a bakery, Cécile Food Club, with her Marseille-born husband, Barthelemy Tassy.
Check into Le Bords De Mer, the towering white boutique hotel that sits on the water’s edge with rooms overlooking over the Med. Grab lunch at the restaurant for a Marseille-classic: chickpea fries with anchovy mayo, accompanied by a glass of Champagne. Then, squeeze in a shop at Maison Empereur, an old-school store with a labyrinth of wood-paneled rooms stocking more items than you would find in Mary Poppins’ bag, from bath bombs to retro ice cream dishes and chic gardening shoes. Wind down the day with a Spritz or Tuba negroni at the Tuba Club Restaurant, where tables are planted on the rocks, where waves pound below. Stay for dinner or head into the Opera District in the city for a meal at Premices, a snug two-story dining room filled with locals, where the creative kitchen highlights local producers with plates such as turnips with kiwi salsa verde.
A new crop of creativity in the Luberon Valley
Avoid the rosé seekers jamming up the coastline’s buzzy beach bars, and make a beeline for this area with pockets of refuge that’s known for its rolling hills and historic towns with bustling markets. Domaine De Chalamon, located on the outskirts of Saint-Remy-de-Provence, is a perfect spot to base yourself. The property is set in a 16th-century bastide surrounded by 15 acres of manicured gardens that look like they belong in Versaille—but rest assured the hotel attracts comparably modest travelers.
On a sunny day, you’ll probably find couples quietly reading their books or French families lazing by the pool. It’s the kind of low-key luxury you want from Provence: a typical French country house with rooms that have splashes of pink and sage green and a sun-dappled patio set under towering trees, like something out of a Peter Mayle book.
Owned by Frederic Biousse and Guillaume Foucher, the French couple have a collection of tasteful, small hotels, from Provence to Mallorca to Tuscany. Conveniently, two of their other properties are located nearby. “We love the weather and the landscapes of Provence,” says Biousse. “It has a unique way of living because it’s more relaxed.”
A jaunt to the village of Oppede
There’s no limit to the excursions or day trips you can take from here: The hotel’s sister property Bastide du Mourre, near the town of Oppede, has a wellness program where spa treatments, yoga, and pilates commence in cabins on the edge of woods. In the Luberon Valley, there are endless trails that wind past lush trees, wild asparagus and lavender fields. Grab a map and head for the mountains or book a Nordic Walk with AirFit Provence, a company run by a couple, who guided hiking trips along hidden paths with plant experts.
On the other side of Arles lies La Chassagnette, a hyper-seasonal fine dining but easy-going restaurant where you can work your way through a six course tasting menu featuring bright cabbage with caviar and smoked beetroot with bouillabaisse. Or opt for the picnic in the garden where you can laze on the grass with a basket filled with summery salads.
In the small town of Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt an hour north of Domaine de Chalamon lies Le Saint Hubert, a restaurant opened by Lise Kvan and Eric Monteleon, who had previously worked at Michelin-starred restaurants including Astrance and Le Carré des Feuillants in Paris. The couple moved to the Luberon Valley after spending a year driving around the country in search of the perfect spot to base themselves. When they stumbled upon the old restaurant and inn that’s been around since 1852, it was love at first. Go for a long lazy lunch of cod with aioli and seasonal veggies, finished with strawberry tart and vanilla cream–depending on the season. Stay for an espresso or one more glass of wine, soaking up local village life.
“It’s so peaceful here,” says Kvan of the area. “There are so many precious gems. You just have to know where to go.”
