Review: Wilderness Mokete, Botswana: First In

Why book?

East of Botswana’s Okavango Delta, where seasonal floodplains, parched grasslands, and towering woodlands meet, Wilderness Mokete sits in a previously uncharted region of Botswana, as a chic-yet-unfussy safari camp that speaks to today’s intrepid traveler. With ultra-high densities of lions, elephants, and buffalo competing for resources, this is wild Botswana at its best. Even better: Mokete’s 193-square-mile concession remains exclusive to its guests, meaning the jaw-dropping action is reserved for the lucky few.

Set the scene

Mokete—which means “celebration” or “gathering” in Setswana—straddles Botswana’s Mababe Depression, a remote area characterized by a mix of savannah, woodlands, and floodplains. While Botswana’s safari circuit typically homes in on the beauty of the Okavango Delta, the Kalahari Desert, and the island-speckled lagoons of Linyanti, Mokete showcases a different part of the country. The name speaks to the massive numbers of wildlife that reside here, from Africa’s largest buffalo herds to multiple lion prides and countless elephants (There’s even an area dubbed Elephant Paradise because of the thousands that frequent it.)

Given Mokete’s remoteness, getting here requires a flight from Maun or Kasane on a light aircraft, followed by a helicopter to the lodge’s landing pad located a five-minute drive from camp. Herein, the adventure truly begins: Before touching down, the region’s prolific animal populations and varied landscapes come into view. Arriving at camp, the vibe feels totally unpretentious. Staff, most of whom hail from the closest village, offer a heartfelt welcome, while settling in among mostly repeat safari-goers, eager to be first in somewhere new. Most are happy to be in comfy khakis and worn-out boots all day and night, and are here squarely for the wildlife. Tents branch from both sides of the common area, equipped with an open-air lounge, dining area, bar, and fire pit. Guests can go to and from their tents and the common area during daylight hours, but must be accompanied by a guide after dark for animal-safety reasons.

The backstory

Conservation-led outfit Wilderness is behind some of the biggest names in the safari world, operating across eight countries in Africa: Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, Rwanda, Tanzania, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe. Their greatest presence is in Botswana, a country known for putting quality over quantity when it comes to safari camps, and where Wilderness operates 18 proprietary camps at different price points. In 2021, the opportunity arose to create a temporary camp near the Mababe Depression, an unknown area in between Wilderness’ star locations in the Okavango Delta and Linyanti. Soon after, it was announced that the camp would become a permanent one and Wilderness’ 19th in Botswana, coming in at the price level of a Classic Camp (starting at $1,210 per person per night). The lodge officially opened in June 2024 and can be easily combined with Wilderness’ other Botswana lodges.

The rooms

The camp features a total of nine oversized tents, all identical by design, each with an elevated seating deck and small plunge pool plus a living area, bedroom, and bathroom. Interiors are intentionally pared back without compromising luxury. A clean and simple earth-toned color palette facilitates an unfussy, eco-chic feel. Organic textiles and throw blankets abound, sisal ropes separate spaces, and there's plenty of natural light. A well-positioned cooling system lies above the bed to help with the wildly varying temperatures of the Botswana bush. Strong Wi-Fi is present in the tents but intentionally absent in the common areas. Tents are well spaced for privacy—connected by elevated wooden footpaths—and overlook the grasslands. There's the sense of being immersed in the bush.

Food and drink

As with most safari camps, you’ll never go hungry (or thirsty) at Mokete. That said, meals aren’t as elaborate as some other Wilderness safari camps: All meals, including dinner, are served buffet-style. Expect lighter lunches that include things like quiche and salad, and heftier dinners (two protein options and three sides, as well as a soup starter) that may include eggplant lasagna, kudu stew, pork belly, and stuffed squash. Alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are included; there’s always someone to assist at the bar for that glass Protea Rosé and Waterford Sauvignon Blanc.

The spa

Mokete doesn’t have a spa per se, but they do have a massage therapist on hand; and treatments can be done in the comfort of your tent. There’s also an exercise mat and light weights available for those who want to get some yoga or stretching in.

The service

Delightful, but as it goes with new camps, the team is finding their rhythm. Most of the camp staff hail from the local rural areas and are still in training as of the opening season. The safari guides, on the other hand, are coming from other Wilderness camps and have been guiding for years, and often decades; our guide, Jonah, had incredible knowledge of the area and the wildlife.

Eco effort

Mokete is wholly run on solar energy, and carries a light ecological footprint. To help eliminate the use of bottled water, the camp uses an on-site reverse osmosis filtration system. Most food products are sourced locally or regionally, and only approved eco-friendly detergents and chemicals are used at the camp.

Anything left to mention?

While many safaris in Botswana are accomplished over both water and land, Mokete’s activities are accomplished exclusively by land. Most days entail two multi-hour game drives in an open-air vehicle following the typical safari rhythm of a 6:15 am departure in the morning and a 4:00 pm adventure in the afternoon. Definitely ditch one full game drive for time in the nearby elephant hide, getting an eye-level view of the countless elephants slurping, splashing, and cavorting in the permanent water channel that runs near camp, an area aptly named “Elephant Paradise.”

Note that drives to reach and see the game can sometimes be long—Mokete covers a 193 square mile concession. However, the rewards are worth it for those willing to venture across the (dirt) roads less traveled. On my safari, I witnessed the most tense of face-offs between a lion pride and a mother and baby elephant one day (which, thankfully, ended happily for the elephant baby). I also lost myself in the glorious cacophony of the thousands strong, mega-herds buffalo that roam this area. Other guests witnessed a pride take down two buffaloes—apparently a common sight in this region—and came across a pangolin on the same day (not as common a sight and also very exciting). Overall, the sightings here are top notch, and often action-packed and real (i.e., not for the faint-hearted).

Mokete is an inimitable standalone destination showcasing Botswana in the raw. It’s a much welcome addition to Wilderness’ Botswana safari circuit, which includes legends such as Qorokwe, Mombo, Jao Camp, Duma Tau, and Vumbura Plains.